Three generations, one kitchen

It started in 1978 as a front room with six tables and a menu that was really just whatever was already being cooked for the family that day. People came because the food was the food they knew, done properly, and because nobody was ever hurried through it.

The second generation took over the kitchen in the nineties and widened things a little — more fish, a proper wine list, coffee worth sitting down for. The front room became the dining room, and the yard behind it became the back room where christenings and birthdays still happen most weekends.

The third generation runs it now, and the recipes have barely moved. The bread is still cut thick, the Sunday roast still comes out to the middle of the table, and nobody is asked to leave so the table can be turned. That was the whole idea in the first place.